Also, we’ve found that it’s less of a hassle if you place the
wheel, tire and Halo assembly on top of a smaller trash
can or something similar. This allows the all-thread to pass
We then snug up the tire to the wheel using
our handy impact gun and 1 1/8-inch socket
on the all-thread. You’ll want the wheel and
tire fairly tight to each other.
For this part, set the tire, wheel and Halo
assembly on a flat surface. Using long tire
spoons that we got from Harbor Freight for
leverage, we inserted the spoon into the tire
and rotated it until it popped on. You may need
an extra set of hands for this.
Now we flip the tire, wheel and Halo assembly back on
the trash can and continue tightening the all-thread. This
will begin to pull the wheel through the tire and past the
TireBlocks as it goes. Don’t be alarmed that the blocks start
to twist; this is normal. Be sure to snug the wheel to the tire
completely and don’t loosen the Halo yet.
We can now install each bolt for the
beadlock while the Halo is still tight. We
suggest snugging them up with a ratchet first, then use a torque wrench to get
them torqued to 10–12 foot-pounds. When
torqued to the proper setting, we remove
the Halo and backing plate completely.
For the final part of the install, we need to seat the bead. Here is the pro tip
that we mentioned earlier. With the valve-stem core removed, we grabbed
the coupler of our air hose and shoved that onto the valve stem itself. It
forces more air in the tire than a standard air inflator. You can also do this
with a standard tire install; it takes about half the time to seat the bead. We
run about 4 pounds of air in the front and 2 pounds of air in the rear, but
you can use more or run no air at all. We’ve done it all with killer results! ❏