Removing the CVT vent and cover is easy enough. You can
drop the cover through the bottom, but removing the wheel
and bottom shock bolt makes the whole job much easier in
the long run.
You must spread the sheaves of the driven (rear) clutch to get
slack in the CVT belt. Make a note of the belt direction. The
RZR Turbo uses this tool to spread the sheaves. There is no
need to remove the belt if you are pulling the clutches.
The General (and many other Polaris models) uses a lever like
this to force the sheaves apart. Even though the CVT belt case
is somewhat filtered, dust inside the case like this is normal in
Insert a long, smooth bar through the clutch to hold it. Make
sure that the end touching the chassis is away from wires
& delicate parts. The bar will allow you to remove the clutch
mounting bolt. It is torqued to 95 foot-pounds, so you will need
to hold it.
Remove the bolt holding the drive clutch on. We used a
Craftsman half-inch-drive cordless impact, and it handled the
task without a problem. Remove the bolt, but keep the washers in order for reassembly. The Turbo driven clutch has a bolt
and a snap ring.
This is the U.S.-made GBoost clutch puller. It runs $49.95,
and worked on both our machines. We found that spraying
some penetrating lubricant into the bolt opening helps the
clutch to pull off easier.
After spraying in the penetrant, insert the puller and tighten it
by hand. Some of the how-to videos say don’t use an impact
on the puller, but there was no chance our Turbo clutch
would have come off without an impact. The clutch is aluminum, and it mounts on a tapered end of the steel crankshaft,
so heating the clutch may help.