however, just barely, for seconds up to
minutes. After some time the wheeler will run fine—no problems at
all. It runs great and starts easy.
Not sure what to do. The dealer
gave the machine back because
they could not help fix it. Where
is the water going to cause this
problem? Thanks for your help.
While I admire your dealer
for trying to duplicate the problem with a pressure washer, that can’t
duplicate the spray you get from hitting
water at speed. Start at the spark-plug
cap. Is the seal at the bottom of the plug
cap tight against the porcelain of the
spark plug? Is the cap securely fastened
to the high-tension lead? Disconnect all
the electrical connections related to the
ignition system and fill the connectors
with dielectric grease and re-connect.
Next, make sure the airbox is dry and
there is no trace of water inside. If there
is, then water is getting inside through
the intake snorkel somewhere.
RAPTORS FOR YOUNGER RIDERS
I’m new to quads, but my friend has
been a subscriber to Dirt Wheels for
years. He gave me some old magazines
to read, and I was very excited when
I read the Raptor 125 and Raptor 250
tests. But then, when I went to the
Yamaha dealer, I learned they don’t
make them anymore. I was bummed,
so now I’m looking for used ones to
buy, unless there’s a reason why I
shouldn’t consider these machines.
Were they good quads in your opinion?
What kind of hop-up tips could you
give me if I found a good used Raptor
250? Thanks for your expert advice.
The Yamaha Raptor 250 was produced between 2008 and 2013—that’s
six years. Engine horsepower was 17.
Top speed is usually around 52–55 mph
via GPS (not cousin Bubba’s pickup
truck). With a pipe and a K&N and jetting, you can get 58–60 mph—more if
you go +1 on the countershaft sprocket
(14T). I can’t think of a reason not to
pick up a good used Raptor 250. Note: I
said “good used,” not “good and used’;
see first question this month!
MAKE MY MACHINE LOOK GOOD
I have a Polaris RZR S 1000 that’s
a couple of years old and it doesn’t
look as good as it used to. I’m think-
By Winston “Boss” McKannick
THAT SOUND MEAN?
I recently purchased a 2006 Honda
250EX for my wife. It runs great with no
smoke. However, the engine has a loud
ticking sound at idle and through the
revs, and I’m not sure where it is coming from. I changed the oil and adjusted the valves. The previous owner said
it had been rebuilt. I’m wondering if I
should tear it apart before it self-de-structs. Any ideas? Thanks.
Yes, I have a few ideas, such as, did
you set the valve clearance correctly per
the factory service manual at 0.005 inch
on p4-10? If you need a manual, and you
will, you can get a free download here:
pdf&usg=afqjcngjypfobk-qesrzbsx-hlwcpjsmdq. Yeah, I know the link is
long, but the download is free! If the
sound you hear isn’t from the valves
being out of adjustment, then you need
to find out just who rebuilt the motor. If
it was a dealer, then most likely it was
done correctly. If it was done by anyone
else, then the rebuild may be suspect
and most likely will require a disassembly. There may have been an assembly
error, and there is no or little oil getting
into the head to lubricate the cam and
valves, causing the noise. Cam chains
don’t tick; they rattle if loose or hiss if too
tight. Pistons rattle if the cylinder-to-pis-ton clearance is too great. Clutches rattle, too, if there is something wrong with
the pressure plate. Cranks pound if the
connecting rod is loose. Good luck, son,
because you may need it!
MY QUAD DOESN’T LIKE WATER
I have a 2008 Wolverine 450 that dies
any time we go through water at speed.
The dealer has had the machine for two
weeks trying to duplicate the problem
using a power washer, spraying up at
every angle, but so far has not duplicated the symptom. If we hit water on
the trail at speed, it sputters and runs;
GOT A PROBLEM WITH YOUR ATV? Send your questions to Dirt Wheels “Dialed In,” P.O. Box 957, Valencia, CA 91380-9057.
Our e-mail address is email@example.com, and include your name, city and state address.
ing about sprucing up its appearance
with a graphics kit of some kind. I’ve
been hearing a lot about wraps. Is this
something I could install myself, or
does a professional business have to
do it? What would you suggest for a
guy like me with average mechanical
Well, Eric, some of the graphics kits
are meant for do-it-yourself installation
and others are advertised as recommended for professional installation.
On the DIY kits, the hoods and doors,
because they are mostly flat with few
curves, present few problems. The
surface must be absolutely clean, and
expect to re-position the vinyl several
times until you get the alignment just
right. Fenders are harder due to the
curving nature of the plastic. I would
think that using pre-cut graphics
will be easier than purchasing a roll
of vinyl and cutting it yourself for a
beginner. Old plastic like yours needs
to be cleaned with carburetor cleaner,
which will not only degrease but dull
the finish in preparation for application
of the vinyl. Only install if the surface temperature is between 60 and
100 degrees Fahrenheit. Your soapy
water solution is six drops of soap in
a spray bottle and then fill with water.
Start with the largest vinyl pieces first,
then align the smaller pieces to the
large piece, because they are easier
to re-position. Use a blow dryer, not a
heat gun, because you are not removing house paint! And, you don’t want to
melt a hole in the vinyl. Use the blow
dryer to shape the vinyl around the
curves and depressions. Squeegee out
any air bubbles or wrinkles (the blow
dryer can sometimes help here too).
Leave your creation for a day to allow
the vinyl to set up and fully adhere.
Remember to send this fine mag before
and after images!;;