For the RZR Turbo, there is no helix change, but for the
General, GBoost replaces the stock helix (right) with this new
one. The cutaway is quite different for the new helix.
Install the new helix and, in our case, a new spring. Clean
everything, then use the CCT to compress the spring and
install the Torx screws with fresh Loctite. Torque to appropriate specs.
Use the proper clutch-spreading tool on the driven clutch and
slip the new belt on the driven clutch. You can slip the belt
into the drive clutch as you slide it onto the end of the crankshaft. Torque the bolts using your smooth bar to keep the
clutch from rotating.
When the mounting bolts are properly torqued, remove the
clutch spreading tool. Rotate the driven clutch until the belt
rides up on the driven clutch. On the Turbo, the belt should
be almost flush with the outside diameter of the driven clutch.
On the General, it should extend above the edge of the clutch
With the weights installed, make sure
that the clutch is clean. Note that the
numbers written in marker are lined up.
Install the new spring if specified, then
use the clutch compression tool to compress the parts so you can tighten and
torque the bolts.
Put the driven clutch on the clutch
compression tool (CCT), and use a Torx
socket to remove the bolts holding the
clutch together. Loosen the nut on the
CCT to release spring tension. The bolts
are thread-locked, so heat may help.
Again, use Scotch-Brite to clean the
sheave faces rubbing opposite to the
belt travel. Clean both faces with the
pad, then clean the whole clutch with a
clean rag and contact cleaner.
We aren’t going to kid you. Any strange clutch noises will give you a heart attack for a while, but our two installs have
been trouble-free. We went back in to apply an updated setting on the Turbo, and the sheaves were perfectly clean with no
trace of belt slipping. Both machines have larger tires, and they both run exactly how they should. And, it is nice to know
that everything is clean in there. Now, go enjoy those tires. ❏