STEP-BY-STEP HOW-TO
82 www.dirtwheelsmag.com
Taking the secondary clutch off doesn’t require a puller, but
an impact wrench will be handy. There will be shims behind
the clutch, so be careful not to lose them.
Flip the clutch over and you’ll see the helix. This has to be
removed first, but the four Torx screws will be stubborn. We
suggest having replacements handy, because you’ll probably
mess the original ones up slightly.
With the helix removed, you’ll see a snap ring. This is under
pressure, so you’ll have to use that spring compressor. The
EPI part number is CCT510, and it sells for $89.95. It takes
a really good set of snap-ring pliers to handle this particular
snap ring—it’s burly!
Reinstall the cover, the shock and the wheel, and go have
fun! ❏
Remove the
shaft, and now
you’ll see the
secondary clutch
spring. It gets
replaced. When
you reassemble
the center shaft,
the splines have
to be aligned
properly. You’ll
put the new EPI
helix in when it
goes together.
This changes the
backshifting and
engine-braking
characteristics.
Use blue Loctite
on the helix
screws.
Reinstall the two clutches and tighten by hand. About 50
pound-feet is usually good, but it varies by model. When you
install the belt, make sure the lettering reads from left to right
and isn’t upside down.
