RAPTOR 350 REFUSES TO GET IN
My daughter has been riding
for many years, and she recently
purchased a used Yamaha Raptor
350. It has been running well and
everything is working properly.
However, the last time she tried to
ride it, something unusual happened.
After starting it and letting it warm
up, she pulled in the clutch and put it
in gear. When she let out the clutch,
the quad didn’t go forward. It’s like
it’s stuck in neutral. Nothing happens
when she shifts to other gears too.
When she tries to push the quad, the
rear wheels are locked up as if it’s in
gear. The quad starts up and runs
fine, but it just won’t go. So, what do
you think is wrong with her Raptor
350 and how do we fix it?
Well, if it was the clutch, the
machine would have jumped forward when she put it into gear.
Since you didn’t mention it jumping,
I will assume the clutch is working
correctly. Next thing to look at is the
transmission. With the transmission
in neutral, can the quad be pushed
freely? If so, then when you shifted the transmission into gear and
the rear wheels locked up, we can
assume the transmission is okay too.
I am leaning towards the primary
drive gear, located on the end of the
crankshaft, that transmits power to
the clutch and is freewheeling on the
crankshaft. There is a key locking the
crankshaft to the primary drive gear.
See here: www.ronniesmailorder
The primary drive gear (1) is keyed
to the crankshaft with the key ( 2), and
engine power is sent through the
primary drive gear (1) to the primary
driven gear ( 6) located on the back
of the outer clutch basket. I would
start my search there with the drain-
ing of the oil and the removal of the
right-side cover. If that is all it is, then
you will need the key, straight (part
number 90282-07057-00), and a new
gasket and crankcase cover too (part
NEW OUTLAW 525S OWNER
I recently sold my 2001 Yamaha
Banshee and purchased a 2008
Polaris Outlaw 525S. On the first ride
I was disappointed, because I was
expecting more power. It already
had an FMF slip-on muffler, and the
exhaust header had a heat glow to it.
So, I opened up the airbox and re-jet-
ted the carb. However, it still doesn’t
feel as fast as my old Banshee. Do
you think something is not right with
it, or am I just expecting too much?
There’s not much aftermarket help for
this machine, so I’m hoping you can
offer some advice. It would be greatly
West Springfield, PA
Ah, where to start! If the head pipe
glows, you are lean! Opening up
the airbox just makes the leanness
worse. Rejetting the carb will help
restore the mixture strength, assuming you know what you are doing.
Anybody can say they re-jetted the
carb. But, was it from a kit or was
there actual riding, listening to the
motor, spark-plug reading, changing jets, reevaluating, changing
jets, reevaluating, changing jets,
reevaluating? You get the picture?
And last, it doesn’t “feel” as fast? Son,
unless you have over-cam’d a four-stroke, it will not have the rush of a
two-stroke “coming on the pipe”! Use
a stopwatch over a 100-yard drag.
Compare the two. Use a GPS to measure actual top speed—not cousin
Bubba’s pickup. Compare the two.
Then, and only then, can you confidently state one is faster!
I have a 2005 Honda 400EX, and it
has always been a good trail quad
for me. Recently, I checked the front
tire for play, and I could feel just
a tad bit of movement from side
to side. I tried to move my friend’s
Rancher 350 front tire, and there was
no movement at all. On my quad I
can’t really tell if the rod ends on the
By Winston “Boss” McKannick
steering tie-rods are worn, or if it’s
the hub bearings. Boss, do you have
a special way to pinpoint what needs
to be replaced on a quad’s front end?
Thanks for your help.
Fort Worth, TX
Of course Boss does! Start by getting the front end up in the air and
on something like a milk crate. We
will ignore the tie-rods and associated ball joints, because they have no
bearing on a “loose” front tire, just
loose steering. Rock the front tire,
top and bottom, in and out. Have
someone watch the ball joints for
movement. Either the hub moves
(wheel bearings) or the ball joints do
(obviously ball joints).
I bought a new 2016 Yamaha
YXZ1000R, and I’m very pleased with
it, except for one thing—I’ve been
getting holes in the rubber CV boots
for the rear axles. Is there any kind
of cure to keep that from happening?
A buddy of mine with a RZR says he
puts those wrap-around covers over
his CV boots to help protect them.
What kind of advice can you provide
me on this issue? Thanks.
Las Vegas, NV
Are we talking a round hole or a
slit? There have been reports of small
slits very close to the large clamp.
The general consensus is that it is an
assembly defect, and Yamaha has
been warranting the boots. Outer
boot guards would help to shield
the boots from damage, because the
design of the quad seems to dump a
lot of “shrapnel” against the A-arm
and outer CV boot. There have been
reports of dented CV boot bands
from impacts. It appears to be the
way the front wheels track with the
rear. So, I would use guards like the
2017 YXZ has and not covers. I feel
you need something more solid to
stop high-speed impacts. ❏
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