PROS & CONS OF BIGGER TIRES
My Kawasaki Teryx comes stock
with 26-inch tires on 12-inch wheels.
The previous owner had put 27-inch
tires on it. What are the advantages
and disadvantages of going even
larger? I’m thinking of putting 28-inch
tires on 14-inch wheels. With sport
quads, you can change the gearing
with different sprocket sizes. Can
anything similar be done with the
CVT on a UTV? As always, thanks for
There are really no downsides
to using 27-inch tires on a Teryx.
With 28-inch tires, there are many
variables: 1. Actual tire height. 2.
Aggressiveness of the tire tread. 3.
Tire weight. Given the “right” 28-inch
tire, you would need a 2-inch lift kit
and offset rims to prevent rubbing.
A right tire is one that is at its measured size. Some 27-inch tires are
actually taller than some 28s, such as
the Bighorn 27-inch is actually larger
than the average 27. Because of the
different rim widths, some owners
have tried 28x10x12 Blackwaters all
around, with two extra front rims on
the rear. This allows the tires to protect the rims better than if they were
mounted on the wider rear factory
rims. It is not easy to change a UTV’s
gearing to accommodate oversized
tires. Best thing to do is install a High
Lifter Dalton clutch kit to provide
more revs (and power) at any given
speed. See www.highlifter.com/
I have a 2011 Kawasaki Brute
Force 750. The rear brakes for this
machine are a multi-disc wet system
on the driveshaft that has fluid inside
the casing. I have not ever replaced
the fluid. Do I need to after a cer-
tain number of years or miles? How
do I do that? Do I have to use the
Kawasaki fluid, or will other brands
of fluids work just as well?
Remove the factory skid plate,
because the drain bolts are quite
hard to remove because they are
an 8mm bolt with a 5mm recessed
Allen head. I would recommend
a 5mm Allen bit socket with an
impact wrench to shock it loose. It
doesn’t have to be a conventional
air wrench; the new 18-volt battery
impacts have quite a bit of power.
Replace the Allen bolt with an
8x16mm hex-head bolt. Reuse the
aluminum sealing washer if in good
condition; otherwise, order a new
one (P/N 92065-023). Use a 19mm,
six-point socket (no 12-point sockets;
the cap is aluminum!). The rear-end
oil is TDH (Transmission, Differential
and Hydraulic) fluid, and nothing
else should be used. Approved TDH
wet-brake fluids are the factory Kawi
oil and Mobil 424, Citgo Transguard
Tractor hydraulic oil or EXXON
Hudraul 560. Per the factory manual, oil changes are to be performed
every year of operation, or earlier if
the fluid becomes contaminated.
A HOT OUTLAW
I have a 2008 Polaris Outlaw 525
IRS that runs perfectly fine until it
warms up from running a while.
Then, it will start missing and backfir-
ing. It’s been much worse on the hot-
test summer days. I have to stop, let
it cool down for 10 minutes and then
continue on with only light throttle to
keep it from sputtering.
I have cleaned the carb a few
times, added a fuel filter, tried different jetting, checked the float height,
checked the valve adjustments, did
the fuel-pump mod and tried different spark plugs. I love the machine,
but I’m at a loss as to what the problem is. I’m thinking now it may be
electrical that’s affected by heat, but
specifically what? Thanks for your
Well, Mike, since you have done
the fuel side, that leaves electrical.
Because you have replaced the
spark plugs, let’s go upstream. It
could be a cracked plug cap or wire,
or it could be a heat-sensitive coil.
With the ignition coil, there are two
ways to test for heat sensitivity: 1.
Use a hair dryer to heat the unit up,
trying to get it to fail. 2. Operate the
By Winston “Boss” McKannick
Got a problem with your ATV?
Send your questions to Dirt Wheels
“Dialed In,” P.O. Box 957, Valencia,
CA 91380-9057. Our e-mail address
is firstname.lastname@example.org, and
include your name, city and state
quad until it fails, then whip out your
sandwich bag that’s filled with a cold
cloth in ice water. Cover the coil and
see if it instantly restarts. Replace
the coil as necessary. Further up the
electrical stream is the black box,
triggering the coil. The same procedure works here. Again, further
up the stream is the Pulser oil. The
internal resistance should be about
110 OHM. The DC output should be
1. 4–2.0 VDC. You can check this in
the field when it quits with a VOM
(Volt Ohm Meter) meter. In the shop,
you can also check the Pulser coil’s
air gap of .016–.030 inch.
QUADRACER HANDLEBAR SHAKE
I still own a 1986 Suzuki 250
Quadracer. You can keep your mod-
ern four-strokes. I like my two-stroke!
I have rebuilt most every part on the
’Racer, but I am mystified by one
thing: when I stop fast, the handle-
bars feel like they shuck forward and
backward. I know this is impossible,
so I checked all the front-end parts
and can’t find the source. Boss, do
you have any idea what is going on?
Dan, my boy, I actually do know
the cause and the solution. On the
Quadracers, the steering shaft was
attached to the frame with a plastic bushing. Over time, the factory
lubricant dried up and the metal
steering shaft wore the plastic bushing. You have two choices here: 1.
Replace the bushing (holder and
steering shaft; P/N 51670-24500). You
will need two and will set you back
about $40. Or 2. Rebuild the bushings. Remove both bushings. Use
a fine file to remove some material
from the flat side, opposite the guide
pin; this will tighten up the clamp.
Finally, drill and tap one bushing for
a Zerk grease fitting. Apply grease to
both bushings and reinstall, with the
bushing with the Zerk fitting on the
outside. Give the Zerk an extra squirt
of grease, and once or twice a year
thereafter to keep your steering stem